Monday, February 15, 2016

Deep Thoughts & Animal Poems

Me not being serious in a rice field
I would like to think that I am, generally, a lighthearted and straightforward guy. Those of you who have been following my blog can most likely attest to the fact that my posts reflect these personality traits. Those of you who have not been following my blog should go back, read my other posts, and confirm the previous statement. If not for the aforementioned reason, you should read my other blog posts solely for the purpose of providing me with the small ego boost that comes with seeing my “Blog Viewed” numbers go up. Thank you in advance.

As I was saying, my blog posts tend to follow a trend of circumventing too many “serious” topics. This, primarily, has been the case because it is much more enjoyable for me to give you all a peek into my life in rural Madagascar by producing posts about cute children’s classes, jam making, talking to animals, and being asked to hold chickens on an overcrowded taxi brousse. With this being said, I have decided to mix things up a bit by laying out a small handful of some more serious questions, concerns, frustrations, and hopes that consistently confront me. By doing this, I intend to give you a slightly more candid look into my unique situation in this beautiful place.

But let’s not get too serious.

To lighten the mood, each deep thought will be bookended my some of my latest animal poetry. Enjoy.

A Limerick for Rats

I know you eat my food for free,
and gnaw through my stuff carelessly.
I wish you would leave,
grant me a reprieve.
Find a new home, ASAP.

Deep Thought – Hope

I recently had a conversation with my site supervisor, Hoby (hoo-bee), about his latest trip to the capital city. We talked about how he went to agricultural meetings, filed some paperwork at governmental offices, and visited his family, but then seemingly out of nowhere he asked me, “Do you know of Nelson Mandela?” He had recently watched a movie on the South African leader’s life, and as he was emotionally describing it to me, he tearfully stated, “Madagascar needs a leader like him.” This comes from a man who daily confronts and struggles with the deep seeded corruption of governmental entities in this country. Anyone from the local post office worker to the regional police officers to governmental executives will accept (and often expect) bribes to sidestep the harsh repercussions they seem to be able to deliver at will. This, unfortunately, isn’t just a monetary issue, but an efficiency concern as well. Certain issues are, consequently, not addressed in a timely manner (e.g. a small village clinic in my region not being restocked with child malaria treatments for two months).

Despite the presence of these dismal events, the Malagasy people never lose hope for a better tomorrow. I am perpetually floored by the unwavering hope and optimism of these beautiful people. Hoby summed it up better than I can by saying, “I look around and I see amazing Malagasy people. There is always hope that they will lead this country, so that is what I pray for.”

My Thoughts on Duck Thoughts

(A haiku)

What does it ponder?
Perhaps justice, self worth, truth.
Or maybe just… Quack.

A Duck Dilemma

(Another duck haiku)

The rock soars towards it.
I warn it, to no avail.
Shouldn’t have said, “Duck!”

Deep Thought – Opportunity

The current President of Madagascar, Hery Rajaonarimampianina (talk about a tongue twister), has traveled the world, echoing the same message to anyone that will listen, “Madagascar is, today, a land of opportunity.” Although his intentions are good, many Malagasy people ask, “Opportunity for whom?” President Rajaonarimampianina is coining this phrase with the hopes of wooing foreign investors (one of the top priorities for the current administration), and consequently improving the quality of life of the Malagasy people as a whole.

The reason that doubt exists among the general public is that, historically, when a foreign investor takes stock in a Malagasy resource, the only people who don’t see benefit are the Malagasy people themselves. Take the example of recent mining (and other extractive industries) in Madagascar. The technician jobs that were created required such a high level of specialty that the vast majority of citizens couldn’t qualify. This lack of opportunity can seem like a slap to the face when The World Bank estimates that more than 92 percent of the population lives under $2 a day (and often less than $1 in rural regions).

But none of this seems to stop the Malagasy people from pushing towards a better life. Talking with the young adults of Madagascar is truly inspirational. Despite being faced with social immobility, they continue to crave education, expanded perspectives, and better lives for the generations to come. And they are not afraid to work for it. I can confidently say that Malagasy people are some of the hardest workers I have ever encountered, and I am glad to see that their hard work is starting to be noticed by the outside world. To see the beginnings of a foreign investment making a difference in the lives of the Malagasy people, click here to check out an article on the international demand for lychees (yum).

A Letter to a Tenrec

Dear strange, hedgehog-like creature,

I do not care that you
live by my door
or
eat my leftover banana peels
or
occasionally knock over my water bucket.

I do care that you
sleep in my shoes.

Cordially,
-A surprised shoe-wearer

Deep Thought – Tradition & (slow) Progress

Upon entering my USA hometown (Farmington, Missouri), the first thing you see off of the highway is a city water tower brandishing the town’s motto: The city of tradition & progress. I find this label oddly appropriate for Madagascar, except with one small adjustment: The country of tradition & (slow) progress. Madagascar is full of incredible cultural pieces that stem out of an exceptionally strong sense of tradition and honoring the past. The Malagasy proverb Manaova toy ny dian-tanalahy: jerena ny aloha, todihina my aoriana (Walk like the chameleon: one eye forward, the other backward), seems to accurately describe the importance that the Malagasy people put on the past.

While this philosophy is often beautiful to witness and essential for the survival of the rich traditional Malagasy culture and identity, it can stir up some destructive tendencies as well. Some examples include the widespread use of “slash & burn,” many out of date medical practices, and even a belief (in my village) that the water from the nearby river is clean during the rainy season and thus, does not need to be treated before consumption. Finding a balance of systematically removing harmful practices and preventing the disappearance of Malagasy culture turns out to be quite the challenge.

“But Nicholas, that’s why you’re in Madagascar! You can change the country for the better!” Although it’s tempting to think that I can come into a place, stand on a Western pedestal, preach the words of change, and then leave knowing I altered the world for good, I realize that it’s not only delusional, but also self-righteous. If healthy and long-term change is to take place without the destruction of certain cultural pieces, the Malagasy people must do it in a Malagasy way. Which usually means slow and steady (Moramora). I am confident that this country will slowly walk together (like the chameleon) towards a healthier tomorrow without losing site of their cultural roots. And when they move as a collective unit, the Malagasy people are unstoppable. Izay mitambatra vato fa izay misaraka fasika (Together we are rock, separate we are sand).

The Transitive Property

I feed the pigs. The pigs get fat.
I eat the pigs. I get fat.
Thus, by the transitive property, feeding pigs makes me fat.
Now do you see?
I told you that my degree in Mathematics would come in handy on the farm.

Cow Days

Moo.
Chew.
Poo.
Snooze.
Repeat.



*Many of the figures in this blog post came from Ambony-Ambany, a collection of articles by Soamiely Andriamananjara.

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Conversations on a Taxi Brousse

How do you get from point A to point B? Car? Train? Bike? Dogsled? Here in Madagascar we ride the taxi brousse (pronounced bruce). I have know for quite some time that I was going to write this blog post, and even after countless inner dialogs I still lack the proper words to fully and accurately describe the anomaly that is the taxi brousse. However, for your reading pleasure, I’ll give it a shot.

I want you to close your eyes and imagine (or just look at the pictures…. your call) a vehicle roughly the size of a 12-passenger van. However, unlike a typical 12-passenger van that usually holds, you guessed it, 12 passengers, this van holds 20+ passengers. I have had the pleasure to ride on a brousse that crammed on more than 35 passengers. Since the interior of a taxi brousse is typically filled with people, most of the bags and other large items are impressively roped to the top.

A taxi brousse is the primary (and typically only) way to travel mid to long distances in this country. Due to the close quarters and long travel times, human interaction is frequent and often laughably bizarre. Here is a small selection of some of my more memorable conversations I have had on (or around) a taxi brousse. I hope that you can laugh and learn from my experiences on these vehicles that seem to breed absurdity.

*All conversations were originally in Malagasy. Assuming most of you do not speak Malagasy, the following are the best translations I can muster. Enjoy.

The Wait (Part 1 of 3)

Me: “When does the brousse leave?”
Lady: “It leaves at 7am.”
I walk up to the brousse at 8:30am.
Me: “Sorry that I’m late!”
Lady: “No problem! You’re the first person here!”

Taxi brousses never leave on time so don’t worry about getting to the station early.


The Handoff

A man struggles to enter an already crowded taxi brousse.
Man: “Hold my bag for a second.”
Me: “Yes, sir.”

A similar situation on a different taxi brousse.
Lady: “Hold this stack of hats for a second.”
Me: “Okay.”

Same thing. Different taxi brousse.
Man: “Hold this chicken for a second.”
Me: “Um… Sure.”

You get the idea.
Lady: “Hold my baby for a second.”
Me: “Wait… What?”

When taxi brousses get very crowded it is common to help the entering passenger by holding her/his belongings while the person sits down. I have quickly learned that luggage can be anything from live chickens to children.


The Fruit Transaction

Man sitting next to me: “Do you want some lychees?”
Me: “Yeah!”
A small bunch of lychees.
I eat 3 of his lychees.
Man: “Do you want some lychees?”
Me: “Yes! Thanks!”
I eat 5 of his lychees.
Man: “Do you want some lychees?”
Me: “Sure!”
The man sets a bundle of approximately 50 lychees in my lap.
Me: “Thank you!”
I turn to the man on the other side of me.
Me: “Do you want some lychees?”

For a few weeks in November/December a delicious, little red fruit called lychee is in season. In my region of Madagascar lychees are plentiful and an essential part of everyone’s diet for the short time they are around, which makes them the perfect fruit for sharing.


The Wait (Part 2 of 3)

It is now 10am.
Me: “How many more people do we need?”
Lady: “We still need 5 people.”

A taxi brousse never leaves until it is 100% full. Your wait time is determined by how fast the taxi brousse fills up.


The Team Effort

The taxi brousse is stuck in a large mud pit.
Driver: “Everyone get out!”
We stand outside of the brousse as the tires continue to spin.
Driver: “I need all of the men to push.”
All of the men successfully push the brousse out of the pit and get sprayed with mud. Taxi brousse promptly starts smoking.
Driver: “It’s broken.”
Man standing next to me: “Do you want some lychees?”
Me: “Yup.”

It is very common for a taxi brousse to get stuck and/or break down. The best way to handle it is with a good sense of humor and a basket of lychees.


The Shower

I am on a very crowded taxi brousse driving through a rainforest. I can only fit half of my torso in the vehicle while the other half hangs out a window.
Lady sitting next to me: “I think that it is going to rain.”
I turn to reveal my drenched right half of my body.
Me: “It already is.”

Sometimes it rains in the rainforest.


The Wait (Part 3 of 3)

It is now noon.
Me: “How many more people do we need?”
Lady: “We don’t need any more people.”
Me: “Then why are we waiting?”
Lady: “The driver left to eat lunch.”

You can’t go anywhere without your driver! In case you are curious, this taxi brousse ended up leaving at 2pm.


The Boxer

Man sitting on my lap: “Where are you from?”
Me: “I’m from the United States.”
From this point on the conversation is in English.
Man: “I know English a little.”
Me: “Really?! Very good!”
Man: “I like the American boxer.”
Me: “Who is that?”
Man: “Muhammad Gandhi. He fights very strong.”
Me: “Do you mean Muhammad Ali?”
Man: “No. Muhammad Ali is Chinese old man. Muhammad Gandhi is a strong boxer.”
Me: “…”

Thanks to this kind gentleman I now know that Mahatma Gandhi has a brother who is a great American boxer. You learn so many things on the taxi brousse!



Riding on a taxi brousse is an adventure. Even though it is typically hot, crowded, lengthy, and generally uncomfortable to ride one of these vehicles, I am thankful for the experiences it creates. I can confidently say that there are few other ways to get as close (mentally and physically) to the people around you.

Friday, January 15, 2016

How to Make: Nicholas’ (soon to be) Famous Akondro-Manga-Mananasy Jam

Here in the Sud Est (southeast) region of Madagascar, the sheer quantity and variety of fruit that is grown is unbelievable… especially for a kid who grew up in southeastern Missouri. I don’t think that I could name all of the new types of fruit that I have tried since being in this beautiful country, and I can’t wait to keep tasting the new fruit that seems to appear weekly in the little marketplace in the nearby village.

Living in the epicenter of voankazo (fruit) production in Madagascar definitely has its major advantages, most of which involve eating alarming quantities of the fruit that happens to be in season. A few of the fruits that are currently in season include akondro (banana), manga (mango), and, my personal favorite, mananasy (pineapple). Here is my quick and easy recipe for an exceptionally delicious (although I may be slightly biased) jam that highlights the fruits of the season. Mazotoa! Enjoy!

Ingredients:

  • 2 cups chopped banana
  • 1 cup chopped mango
  • 1½ cups chopped pineapple
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 1-2 lemons
  • Citric acid (optional)*


When choosing the fresh fruit, make sure to buy the ripest (and thus, sweetest) fruit available. Peel bananas and mangos, core pineapple, and chop it all up into small yet uniform pieces. Cook at a very low simmer in a saucepan with sugar and the juice of 1-2 lemons. A good rule-of-thumb is to initially use 2 parts fruit to 1 part sugar. You can always add more sugar if you want it sweeter! Some fruits will need a little water during the cooking process, but don’t add too much unless you want to make juice. This recipe shouldn’t need any additional water if you add in the pineapple juice to the mixture.  

Continue cooking until fruit has thickened to jam-like consistency. To test this, put a little hot jam on a plate and let cool for a few minutes. Then, drag your finger through the puddle of jam: if the remaining jam on the plate stays separated, it is cooked enough and has reached the gelling point. Remember that jam will always thicken as it cools.

Store jam in glass jars rather than plastic and keep in a cool, dry place, if possible. Enjoy your jam on a bread of your choosing, or just eat it by the spoonful! I recommend the later form of consumption.


*If you are serious about jam making and intend to jar large quantities, you may want to try to track down citric acid to replace the lemon juice and to help with the long-term preservation of your jam.

How to Make: Mofo Akondro

One of my favorite things to do while at the market is to peruse the cornucopia of delicious street food that ranges anywhere from fried shrimp bread to homemade yogurt to little bowls of curry noodles.

A street vendor preparing some delectable mofo akondro
Mofo Akondro, or deep fried banana, is one the tastiest Malagasy street foods (in my opinion). Here is a simple recipe so you can have a little taste of Madagascar wherever you are!

Ingredients:
  •       3 ½ cups flour
  •       1 ¾ cups koba (rice flower)
  •       1 tbsp. baking powder
  •       Bananas
  •       Lukewarm water


Combine the flours and baking powder together. If rice flower isn’t available, substitute the koba for white flower. Add water until you have a thin batter. Dip bananas in the mixture and deep fry until golden brown. Although ice cream is uncommon in Madagascar, I am sure that it would accompany your mofo akondro perfectly.